Yellowstone & Grand Tetons - September 4-14, 2005

Our big adventure for 2005 turned into a two-week camping trip to the wild west of Wyoming, where we hiked, kayaked, and climbed through Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. After hiking over 50 miles, we returned home with over a thousand pictures, including countless geysers, hot springs, waterfalls, lakes, mountains, birds, bison, elk and deer. We also managed to see the endangered gray wolf, moose, otters, mountain goats, and a bald eagle. We didn't see it all, but we covered quite a bit for a fabulous fall retreat.

Grand Prismatic Springs

The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, which encompasses both parks, is like no place else on earth. Yellowstone is the world's first and oldest national park, and is part of the world's largest intact temperate mountain ecosystem. Yellowstone contains more geysers than any other place on earth, including the tallest geyser (Steamboat Geyser) and most famous (Old Faithful). The parks are also about the most accessible on earth... you don't have to go far to find wildlife, waterfalls, or a million other features unique to this area.

~Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone~

We spent the first week of our trip at Yellowstone, camping at Canyon Village in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Our trip began at the end of busy season, but the Labor Day holiday and beautiful weather still kept the campground pretty busy. The Canyon includes the double waterfalls, Upper and Lower Falls, which plunge over 300 ft down into the Yellowstone River. We spent some time along the North Rim Trail of the Canyon, taking a few different pictures of the valley and falls. Pictured below: The Lower Falls, Us from the Canyon Rim, Inside the Canyon, and Our Campsite.

   

~Day 1: Mt. Washburn and Tower/Roosevelt Area~

Our first full day in the park, we decided to tackle three hikes - two popular hikes and one very challenging hike. Our morning began with a three hour hike up to the top of Mt. Washburn, just to the north of Canyon Village. We decided to take the Dunraven Pass trail, climbing 1,400 feet to the 10,243-foot summit lookout tower. The weather was somewhat hazy, but we still had some awesome views across the valley. On the way up, we also saw some wildlife - both a buck and some sort of mountain goat animal (didn't really look like either the big horn sheep or pronghorns that frequent the area, but they were cute nonetheless). After the climb down and a quick lunch, we drove to Tower Falls for our second hike, but the path to the bottom of the falls was actually closed. We still had some nice views, but after walking around a bit, we took off for our final, and most difficult hike of the day - the Petrified Forest Hike. The Petrified Forest on Specimen Ridge extends over 40 square miles and supossedly contains one of the most extensive petrified forests in the world. However, the trail is unmarked and the climb is grueling... it wasn't exactly an easy climb to end the day with. The trail begins through sage meadows where buffalo roam, and climbs very quickly and painfully up to a Douglas fir grove. However, just when you think you've finally reached the top, there seems to be another bend and another gruelling hill, as well as many unmarked trail splits. By the end of the day, we didn't exactly find an extensive petrified forest, but we did see a few petrified stumps and some impressive views. Pictured below: the mountain goats on our hike, a buck in the meadow, sunrise glow on Mt. Washburn, Mt. Washburn lookout tower, Tower Falls, Kelly on the Petrified Forest hike and sitting on the Petrified Tree stump, and a couple views that helped make the grueling Petrified Forest hike worth it.

  
     

~Day 2: Mammoth Hot Springs and Bunsen Peak~

Our second day at Yellowstone took us northwest to the Mammoth Hot Springs. Mammoth is most famous for the beautiful hot spring terraces, and a series of boardwalks make all of them easily accessible. After walking around and taking pictures of both the Upper and Lower Terraces, we drove a little south and hiked Bunsen Peak. From the top of Bunsen Peak are amazing 360-degree views, including the Gallatin Range, Mammoth Terraces, Absaroka Range, and Washburn Range. This hike took us through part of the burn area from the 1988 Yellowstone fires, but it was neat to see the new growth forest carpeting the hillside. After making the trek up and back, we finished the day with a visit to the Norris Geyser Basin, where the tallest geyser (Steamboat Geyser) lives. However, since the geyser is only predictable to erupt every 4 days-to-50 years, it was unlikely we were going to see much. Pictured below:images from Mammoth Hot Springs.



    

~Day 3: Upper Geyser Basin, Bisquit Basin and Mystic Falls~

On Day 3, we had a big treat in the morning with a gray wolf sighting, followed shortly after with some unique bison picture opportunities near a stream and fumeroles. After the wildlife morning, we finally made our way to Old Faithful and walked the 3 mile path along the Upper Geyser Basin. After lunch, we made our way down the road to Bisquit Basin and hiked to Mystic Falls before heading back to camp. Pictured below: one of 150 or so wolf pictures we captured (many included the happy wolf feasting on a deer, but we decided to keep this site non-bloody), bison by the stream and in front of fumeroles, Old Faithful erupting, Morning Glory pool, Castle Geyser, a colorful scene from Bisquit Basin, Grotto Geyser, Punchbowl Geyser, Sapphire Pool, the Little Firehole River on the Mystic Falls hike, the tiered Mystic Falls, and us in front of Mystic Falls.

   
     
  

~Day 4: Midway Geyser Basin and Fairy Creek Trail~

Day 4, we returned to Geyser Country to the Midway Geyser Basin and Grand Prismatic Spring, the largest hot spring in North America. Ian captured the beautiful panoramic shot seen above during our Fairy Creek Trail hike -- we climbed up one of the hills overlooking the boardwalks. Fairy Creek Trail continued past the boardwalks through a new growth forest to Fairy Falls, a 197-foot ribbon waterfall and home to three playful otters. From the falls, our hike continued to Twin Buttes and two geysers: Imperial Geyser and Spray Geyser. Both geysers were in constant eruption, and Imperial was surrounded by a colorful pool. It was a long morning hike, but one of our favorites on the trip as it took us to a variety of unique geologic features. Pictured below:Grand Prismatic Spring from the overlook and from the ground, scenery along the hike, Fairy Falls, the playful otter, Imperial Geyser, and a colorful stream.

    
  

~Day 5: Lake Yellowstone~

Our final full day at Yellowstone continued our streak of seeing a new animal each day: this morning's was a female moose eating breakfast in a pond near camp. After taking pictures, we continued to our final Yellowstone hike, which took us into a bear frequenting area. It was very pretty, but we didn't have any bear sightings, much to Ian's disappointment. The hike took us to the top of Elephant Back Mountain, overlooking Yellowstone Lake, the largest alpine lake in North America. After seeing the overlook of the lake, we braved threatening weather to try out our new kayak in the lake... we made it out and back before the rain began, but it was a fun end to a perfectly beautiful week in Yellowstone. Pictured below: the female moose, Yellowstone Lake, a clearing in the hike, and us and our inflatable kayak just before launch.

   

~Grand Tetons: Jenny Lake~

After spending a week in Yellowstone, we drove south and set up camp at the beautiful Jenny Lake. The weather was cooler and wetter our second week of vacation, and the weather change seemed to reflect the atmosphere difference between the two parks. The Grand Tetons, either because of the time of year and weather or because of the park, was quieter and more serious than the tourist-heavy Yellowstone. We did more wildlife viewing and relaxing during our second week, but we did manage one more long hike.

Our first day in the park, we set up camp and relaxed while it rained, but we woke up the second day to drier, although cooler weather. It had snowed in the mountains, which made for a very picturesque hike. We walked to Moose Ponds, off of Jenny Lake, and hiked along the lake and into the mountains to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. Jenny Lake is a beautiful glacial lake offering expansive views of the Teton mountain range, and the climb up to Inspiration Point was worth the views. Pictured below: the Grand Teton range, us at Hidden Falls, our Jenny Lake campsite, snow-covered mountains, an artist inspired at Jenny Lake, and a tree on our hike.

    

~Grand Tetons: Oxbow Bend~

Our third day in the Grand Tetons, the rain and snow returned. However, it cleared at dusk to allow us some great wildlife viewing at Oxbow Bend. Each night, a Ranger leads wildlife viewing at this scenic and popular overlook, and on our first night, we managed to see both a male moose and a bald eagle. We returned the following night (and our last night) for additional wildlife and a beautiful sunset over the mountains. Pictured below:the mountain sunset reflected on Snake River, one of many elk in the park, and a close-up of a male moose.

  

~Lasting Memories of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem~

Our final day in the Grand Tetons, we decided to take a beginning rock climbing class through Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Although we didn't get any pictures, the all day class was amazing, and we definitely recommend our instructor, Lynne Wolfe, for either a class or guide. Ian had tried indoor rock climbing before, but he benefited from the official instruction on outdoor climbing and is eager to try more advanced climbs in the future. Kelly amazed herself by keeping up with the class, since she has no balance, no strength, and is afraid of heights. Our class was a private class just for the two of us, and we learned belaying, signals, knots, safety, rappelling, and instructions for efficient movement on rock. It was a fun end to an amazing trip.

Yellowstone is where the concept of National Parks began, and it is a must see for any nature or outdoor enthusiast, no matter what time of year you plan to go. We had an amazing time at both parks and recommend the following in planning your next vacation there:

footer
"Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover."
~Mark Twain