Dominica's Boiling Lake - September 20, 2003
Well, we finally did it. We did the 15-mile, 8-hour hike to Boiling Lake with a group of about ten. The ultimate endurance hike on Dominica, it is an arduous climb through Morne Trois Pitons National Park to the Valley of Desolation and eventually Boiling Lake. Dominica's Boiling Lake is the second largest in the world at 270 ft across, and the site is something to be seen. While the trail does have a mythic quality about it, nothing about it was overly scary or impossible. It was just long and exhausting, but the majesty of God's creation abounds as you walk though rainforests and lusch valleys, over mountains and rivers, and into the crater of bubbling sulphur and rising clouds.
Our journey began in the mountain village of Laudat, on the south end of the island outside of Roseau. Fatima planned the trip, and Ansu and Margi joined us and Fatima's friends for the day-long hike. Below is a "before" picture of the group, along with our guide, at the beginning of the trail just before Titou Gorge. The welcome sign for Boiling Lake, as well as a hot and cold springs, sits at Titou Gorge, and it is a relatively easy-going hike from here for about an hour until you reach Breakfast River. Also below: our group passing over the first bridge into Titou Gorge; us on the path into Morne Trois National Park; Margi, Ansu and Kelly on one of the log bridges on the trail; and the group resting at Breakfast River.
Once you cross Breakfast River, it is a steep climb up to the top of 3,000-ft Morne Nicholls. This meant lots of steps, as you can see in the first picture below. The second picture below is of Ansu, Margi, Fatima and Kelly at a level part of the trail almost to the top. It took us about an hour to reach the top, where we were rewarded with breathtaking views across the southern part of the island. We could see Roseau and the Caribbean Sea off in the distance, as well as the steam rising from Boiling Lake just beyond the mountain. The third picture is of the two of us on the last stair to the top of Morne Nicholls. We took the opportunity to get another group shot (last picture, first row) before starting the steep descent down to the Valley of Desolation. The panoramic is of a view of the green valley from the top of Morne Nicholls.
After a forever-downward staircase of rocks and wooden steps (first picture, first row below), we reached a slide of red rocks that led down to the Valley (second picture). The Valley of Desolation is the first sign of volcanic activity on the trip, with bubbling sulfur gases leaking out of crevases in the Valley floor. While boiling hot and kind of stinky, the sulphur is said to have medicinal value for the skin. Our guide, as well as some of our friends, tested it out as a face mask, while the rest of us explored the Valley. Although the name gives the area kind of a bleak description, in reality, the area is bursting with color and activity, including more than 50 fumaroles and hot springs. Also pictured below (first row): A bird's eye view of the Valley; the bubbling sulphur pits; (second row): Fatima modeling a partial sulphur face mask; our guide doing meditative yoga in the sulphur steam; a picture of what was described to us as remnants of lava flow; a warm bath just before Boiling Lake; and part of the rocks and water leading to the Lake.
From the Valley, we still had another hour hike up and over a mountain and through another mini-Valley of Desolation before finally reaching Boiling Lake. Complete exhilleration takes over as you finally reach the Lake. A cliff overlooks the muddy, milky water, where we rested to enjoy the views and our snacks. Thick steam engulfs the area as the center of the lake bubbles furiously. We could have easily fallen asleep in this peaceful environment, but we still had to make the three hour trek back down the trail - back the same way we came. Below: the two of us on the cliff overlook; the boiling center of the lake; Ansu, Kelly and Margi taking a break by the lake; and Fatima resting in the warm bath on the journey back to the beginning.
Overall, Boiling Lake was an amazing experience, and we were glad to do it with friends. There was a lot of fear on Kelly's part before starting, but she managed to do the whole thing withouth having to get Ian to carry her. We even led the pack for most of the tour. Her muscles completely rebelled the next day, so don't think this is an easy hike - just don't be too intimidated to try it yourself someday. For more information on Boiling Lake, visit the official site.
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